“You’re breaking up, go to higher elevation and try again please.”
I just came from higher elevation. I’m on the access road to 1000 Foot Falls in the Mountain Pine Ridge reserve in Western Belize. I’m concluding what can only be described as an epic solo hike. I started three hours ago at about 9:00am. I’ve hiked nearly six miles, up and down hundreds of feet of elevation changes. I’m low on water and it’s getting hot. I guess I’ll wander back up the access road to the crest of the ridge I just hiked, and attempt to radio the lodge again. This morning, before driving me to the trailhead, the lodge set me up with a water bottle and a two-way radio so I could call for a pickup when I ran out of steam. I’m not necessarily out of steam, but looking at my property map, I’m also nowhere near the lodge. After five minutes of backtracking to higher ground, I try the radio again. “Hello, can I get a pickup at 1000 Foot Falls please?” A moment passes. “1000 Foot Falls? Are ….. you sure?” The voice on the radio sounds surprised. “Yes please, 1000 Foot Falls.” “Ok, a driver will be out in about 20 minutes” comes the reply. This is music to my ears. I chug my remaining water and meander back down the access road to the ranger station and scenic overlook to snap a picture of the waterfall itself. I get my picture and a short video of the falls before plopping down onto a park bench under a covered picnic area. Despite being a beautifully clear day, 1000 Foot Falls is deserted. I scroll through dozens of spectacular videos and images from today’s hike. Just this morning, I’ve seen incredible waterfalls, amazing vistas, streams and cascades, crystal clear pools, you name it. This hike was a highlight reel of Mountain Pine Ridge. I look at my map again. I haven’t even hiked 5% of the trails yet. Hidden Valley actually has the largest collection of trails on private property in all of Belize, an astonishing 90+ miles! I briefly consider cancelling my ride back down the mountain so I can hike different trails home. Then I remember I’m out of water, and a minimum of three hours out. Discretion is the better part of valor. It is officially hot, and now that I’ve stopped moving for a few minutes, my legs are shot. Besides, I need a cold beer in that plunge pool at my villa.
“This 7,200 acres is some of the best representation of what Mountain Pine Ridge has to offer.”
– Vian
Hidden Valley Wilderness Lodge guide
For Hidden Valley Wilderness Lodge guests,
this is a typical day, although the voice on the radio seemed in moderate disbelief that I had hiked so far. The property at Hidden Valley is a glorious 7,200 acres (!) of wilderness- and legitimately one of the most spectacular properties I’ve ever visited anywhere. I was quite familiar with the tourist highlights from the area like Rio Frio Cave, Rio on Pools, and Big Rock Falls. I’ve visited each of them several times with guests. To be honest, I never quite understood what the big deal was with Mountain Pine Ridge and why people raved about it. I’d been to a few of the area resorts- and they’re beautiful- but hadn’t really experienced anything that made me want to stay and explore longer. It seemed like more of a day trip. When I got the invitation to visit Hidden Valley, I was mostly looking forward to the room, maybe a dip in a pool, and trading a few slightly cooler days up in the mountains for the increasingly hot days down near San Ignacio. Now, after this badass hike, I totally get it. I’m in awe of what I just experienced. To quote one of the Hidden Valley guides: “This 7,200 acres is some of the best representation of what Mountain Pine Ridge has to offer.” He’s not wrong. I’d move up here in a heartbeat if the opportunity presented itself. For now, I’ll have to make due with Villa Two.
Being in somewhat decent physical condition,
the morning’s adventure started with relative ease. I hiked from Cascade Trail over to Armadillo Trail, and then along Crossover Road to Lizard Trail and back up again until I reached Secret Pools and Falls. Then even further until I reached Butterfly Falls (as seen at the top of this post). Coming back up from Butterfly, I had to decide between more waterfalls, or going along High Point Trail. Having recently seen two, as well as cascades and pools, I opted for High Point. This decision ended up taking me much further than I originally intended, but in the most rewarding way. The hike is difficult, especially if you’ve already climbed down and back up again from two other falls and many, many hills. The incline is punishing. The forestry team cut log steps into switchbacks on the hillside. This makes the climb less steep- but doubles the linear distance you travel.
With High Point Trail being mostly devoid of tall trees, the sun was relentless.
Back and forth up the hill I went. I found a small shady place and stopped for a drink of water. I wondered if I should go back down the way I had arrived; looking ahead it was all uphill with minimal tree cover. I looked at the map. I estimated my distance to the top and decided to go for it. After another 10 minutes of steep uphill climbing, sometimes using my hands on the hill in front of me for balance, I reached a gentle grassland. The top of the ridge was blissfully level. That’s when I saw a small sign with an arrow that said simply: 1000 F.T. Falls, and below that, AIRSTRIP. Airstrip? There’s no airstrip on the map. What airstrip? Surprisingly, I was high enough on the ridge that I had 4G service, so I opened Google Maps and turned on the satellite layer for a better view. According to Google, I was only about 600 feet away through some pine forest to a perfectly straight line of brown, hidden within the green. And it looked huge. “That has to be it,” I said out loud to myself. I considered my options. Should I go or turn around? I already hiked all this way and climbed this damn mountain, so what’s another 600 feet to see an uncharted air strip? (I have since learned the updated property map, seen below, now shows the airstrip location. I am glad my map did not.) This intriguing possibility gave me the next burst of energy I needed and off I went through the woods until, sure enough, I reached an enormous clearing at one end of an abandoned dirt airstrip. It was clearly not in regular use, with ruts, gulleys, and knee high grass covering the runway. I looked at my map again. I was far at one end, but there was an access road that led back to the Lodge on the other. I estimated the distance at about half a mile. So I took another drink of water, and started walking at a fast pace.
“Thousand Foot Falls?
Are … you sure”?
– The Voice on the radio
I hiked along the treeline, to make the most of
the limited shade that I could find. As I walked I noticed a collection of stones spelling out the airstrip name so planes passing over could get their bearings. With just a few minutes more walking, I was approaching the private road that would take me back towards home. I also saw just how close I was to 1000 Foot Falls. Well, kinda close. Close compared to how far I had come already. What the hell I thought, it would be silly to not see it because of a little extra hiking. (it was in fact, a great deal more hiking) Eventually I got to a junction between the Hidden Valley private road and the public road to 1000 Foot Falls. I found the locked gate noted on the property map. I ducked under it, turned left, and quickened my pace. Final push. After another 10 minutes walking down the forested road, I saw the entrance to 1000 Foot Falls, which takes us back to the beginning of the story.
In about 20 minutes, an SUV pulled into the
parking area at 1000 Foot Falls. “I found you!” exclaimed my driver as I climbed in. We talked about my morning as we drove back through the property. By the time we arrived at the lodge, I was famished. As I walked into the reception area, one of the dining staff, Byron, approached. “Would you like lunch?” I glanced at my watch. 12:30 pm. Perfect timing.
Hell yes I would like lunch. Maybe two lunches. “Can I get two Belikins to have now, and can you bring me a pulled pork and pineapple sandwich to Villa Two when it’s ready please? The door will be unlocked, I’ll be in the pool.” He nodded and gave me a smile before retreating to the kitchen. I approached the always-friendly front desk manager Brandon to give my radio back. He asked about my adventures and how I liked the property. I gave him the brief version of my solo hike- two waterfalls, lots of hills, High Point Trail, (not so) secret airstrip, etc. All things considered, an invigorating and remarkable morning. “Did I hear your pickup was 1000 Foot Falls?” I nodded. “Three hours,” I said. Brandon arched his eyebrows and took my radio. As if on cue, Byron reappeared with ice cold beers, which I accepted gratefully. And thus delightfully concluded my epic hike. Beers in hand, sandwich in progress, plunge pool imminent.
When a room is called Villa anything, I assume it’s going to be extremely nice and probably very comfortable.
What I had not expected, was that Villa Two is actually one of the nicest places I’ve been lucky enough to stay. Like, ever. It is among the finest luxury rooms you will find in all of Belize. It is indeed a villa- and enormous. Beautifully designed spaces perfectly blend the interior with the incredible beauty of the natural surroundings, blurring the lines between the two. There are stunning views from every room and seating area. As a fan of architecture and design, I can state plainly that these people knew what they were doing and executed their vision flawlessly. No detail has been overlooked. It’s minimalist, yet plush and sophisticated. I feel like I’m living in a Pottery Barn advertisement. Villa Two consists of an open floorplan living and dining space adjacent to the bedroom and bathroom spaces. But for me at least, the game changer was the fully screened dining and outdoor living area, and of course, the plunge pool. Despite its size, the villa sits lightly within the landscape with a white concrete and local stone facade beneath a green roof. It looks as though it belongs in its location and has been there for years, despite being newly constructed in 2023. It’s a pleasure each time you walk in the front door and gaze out to the views beyond. I think the pictures and video speak for themselves.
Special thanks to Einer Gomez and all the staff at Hidden Valley
for making my three nights there such a rewarding experience. Beyond a typical stay at a resort, this experience was special in large part due to the exceptional service and genuine hospitality offered by the team. To say this trip was revelatory and inspiring is an understatement, but the best words I can muster to describe such a special place and group of people. It’s a true privilege to recommend them to all those who like to wander off the beaten path and seek their own (not so) secret airstrips and adventures. Thank you friends, and see you soon!
Hidden Valley Wilderness Lodge is located in Mountain Pine Ridge.
For details or booking information, contact them via their website or by emailing reservations@hiddenvalleyinn.com
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