I’m floating down the middle of the Macal River in Western Belize,
asking my guide, David, about La Ruta Maya. It’s an epic canoe race that’s as much about endurance as it is about bragging rights. The race has been won the past three years by the Guava Limb Cafe, sister restaurant to The Lodge at Chaa Creek, which I’m calling home for the next few days. I assume this is what racing La Ruta Maya feels like. We are two men in a three-seat canoe, and we’ve spent the better part of 40 minutes paddling our asses off upriver. Well, I have, at least. David appears unbothered. When I ask if he’s ever wanted to race himself, his answer is a self-evident question: “Sixty strokes a minute for five hours?” I think he could probably do it. I wasn’t responsible for our progress against the current!
As we lazily turn around and begin to slowly drift back downstream, David claims I did better than many guests, especially families who favor a leisurely float over paddling. “The children always start splashing and don’t paddle… We don’t make it as far.” His compliment makes me feel sheepish like when I used to help on the farm as a kid and my dad would say, “Good job,” even though he’d done 17 times more work. I am but a spectator in the presence of rowing greatness, humble though David may be. Of course, I could have opted for a one-way float to San Ignacio and caught a quick van ride back to the lodge. But that’s not the move for an amateur adventurer such as myself. Whatever the effort, it’s worth it. As the sun sinks below the surrounding hills, we’re rewarded with an incredible show. Birds drift overhead in silent flight, some heading out to find dinner, others returning home. With each passing minute the colors change across the sky in picture-perfect gradients. David stretches his back as our once-embattled canoe glides easily over the murmuring water. The water darkens. A Tiger-Heron stands on one leg in the shallows near the bank, watching us closely as we move past. It takes a single, deliberate step before flapping quickly a few times and hopping onto a low hanging branch.
After a full day of activities at Chaa Creek, this float is the perfect way to unwind. I feel simultaneously invigorated and at peace. Even as someone lucky enough to call Cayo home, this is one for the books- a genuinely fantastic experience. I wish our blissful sunset drift would never end, but just like that, we’re back at the dock. I wander from the river toward the main lodge, thinking about how many moments like this make Chaa Creek remarkable. It’s so much more than a resort. It’s a living, breathing world built with care.
Chaa Creek has been at the forefront of Belize tourism from the start.
From humble beginnings literally in the middle of nowhere, to becoming one of the top destinations in the hemisphere, they’ve put Western Belize on the map, simply by being intentional with how they immerse their guests in the best the country has to offer. Somehow, despite the international awards, vast expansion of property and offerings, and becoming a benchmark in Belize for luxury, they’re the same authentic company run by the same authentic people.
In a tourism market like Belize, geographically small regions contain a surprising number of excellent resorts, yet Chaa Creek rises to the top year after year, decade after decade. It’s because of the ethos that underpins their entire operation. They’ve grown organically and at their own pace. Of course, the lodge is now fantastically luxurious– think villas with walls of glass that open to plunge pools in the jungle- but that’s only part of what makes this place special. The real secret is that Chaa Creek invites you to experience and connect deeply with the ecosystems of Western Belize.
First and foremost are the people, with all their warmth, passionate love of country, and richly diverse backgrounds on display. Here, there’s no wall between staff and guests. At many high-end resorts, team members are instructed to follow scripts or limit interaction to maintain a curated brand image. Chaa Creek is precisely the opposite, and the impact it has on their hospitality is evident immediately. Their brand image is how luxury feels when it flows from intention, and not just opulence. As a guest, it’s a pleasure to become part of it. Every member of their team is empowered to be themselves, bringing out their best and amplifying the guest experience. It allows individuals to take ownership of their place in the process. This place and these people are as real as it gets, and when you leave, you’ll feel like you stayed with old friends. The seamless blend of hospitality and personality becomes more evident with each person you meet or activity you enjoy. Despite their growing size, the focus is still luxury with purpose– encouraging individuals to be their authentic best.
That purpose is beautifully showcased with Maya Open Hearth.
Chaa Creek is known for their exceptional culinary program, but aren’t the types to rest on their laurels. This isn’t hospitality for show; it’s an invitation to share in Belizean culture through food, environment, and storytelling. The experience begins down a candle-lit path decorated with tropical leaves, fresh flowers, and handmade elements crafted by local artisans.
The setting alone is an immersion in cultural reverence. You’re adjacent to the thatch-roofed hearth, so you can smell the aromas of native herbs and roasted meats wafting from the open flame, as you watch the sunset from your table on the hillside. Seated comfortably beneath the warm glow of string lights, it’s a marvelous addition that perfectly compliments their always-excellent Mariposa restaurant.
Chef Edwin orchestrates the entire affair, bringing finesse to the fire with as much confidence as he does in the lodge’s main kitchen. Every course features local ingredients- most grown on The Maya Farm at Chaa Creek. Add to that gracious table service, and guests want for nothing. This is authentic Belize in elevated form. Each course was delicious and it was easy to become enthralled with the dining experience.
Julienne jicama, onions, cilantro-roasted peppers, grilled pineapple marinade, with drizzled white balsamic reduction
Chaya, onion, garlic and smoked pineapple-stuffed fillet of fish, with grilled vegetables, sweet potato mash and roasted tomato sauce
Your true host when you visit Chaa Creek is the surrounding jungle.
The entire reserve now boasts 500 acres, and the lodge makes good use of it, with hikes, RTV tours, horseback rides, a butterfly farm, and plenty of other experiences designed to bring guests closer to the land without overwhelming it. As the room numbers have grown, new infrastructure was built, or new onsite activities were created, the decision was always to work with the landscape, as opposed to simply layering luxury on top of it. This is a tremendous asset to anybody wanting to experience all the delights of the jungle, but without venturing too far from their beautiful rooms- or perhaps the well-stocked bar and refreshing pool.
I started my day early with a birding tour only a five minute walk from my villa. My guide was an outgoing young woman named Seleni. With equal parts knowledge and keen eyesight, she helped our group spot dozens of bird species without ever leaving the center of the property. By letting the existing landscape inform their design, Chaa Creek ensured that the Toucans, Motmots, Kites, Tityras, and so many other birds were right over top of us in the middle of the resort, much to the delight of the group. Seleni could mimic bird calls and coax the birds to us, too. Within a few minutes, she called a Motmot, which landed overhead in the branches of the trees dotting the resort.
Moments like that showcase not only great guiding, but also highlight how well-designed Chaa Creek is. It’s a wildlife habitat as much as a hotel. Expertly designed and operated activities can serve as access points to discover more about history, culture, and nature, and this was a standout. Seleni and the guides at Chaa Creek are stewards of the land, and their ability to work with and around the property and surrounding landscape is exceptional. This excursion was definitely worth the 6:30am start time!
As luck would have it, I was solo
for my next activity, the Rainforest Medicine Trail. My guide was once again the friendly and capable Seleni. I am always happy to have a private tour!
This trail is dedicated to the legacy of Don Elijio Panti, a renowned healer considered to be the last Maya Shaman of Belize. The plant remedies he practiced attracted scientists around the globe, and his efforts ultimately contributed to hundreds of native plants being sent for anticancer research.
The trail winds comfortably along the property’s edge and showcases plants used for everything from healing wounds to spiritual ceremonies. Seleni’s knowledge and stories bridged ancient Maya practices with modern science. One minute, we were talking about recreational hallucinogens; the next, the pharmacologic value of tree bark.
Beyond the impressive volume of information, it was inspiring that the experience was shaped to be deeply connected to place. This is education as preservation- quiet, cultural, and important. It’s a critical part of history and culture with ramifications in modern times just as it had for the people discovering it thousands of years before us.
Last Day: Rainforest RTV Tour!
You can read about Chaa Creek and learn from the guides about the flora and fauna of the area, but to understand just how large and diverse the property is, you should venture out to experience it yourself. My trail guide and driver was Louis, and we were joined by Lisa, a local hospitality student interning through the lodge’s educational partnership.
We set out in an RTV, deep into the jungles of the reserve. The trails we used intersected with a few of the riding trails occasionally, but for the most part, we were alone in the forest, stopping to see birds, observe two of the eight resident Howler Monkey troupes, and to marvel at some of the Maya mounds hidden by time throughout the property. University research teams still visit Chaa Creek to excavate and have located between 70 and 80 distinct mounds, most of which remain covered by the forest.
The primary jungle is a dense and wild place. With camera traps, researchers spotted four of the five Belizean cat species in the reserve, including pumas, margays, jaguarundis, and ocelots. I do not envy the people who blazed these trails and cleared this bush- maintaining them looks hard enough. This rugged ecosystem is exactly what makes Belize special; the plants, birds and animals, and the people who maintain it.
Up and down through the jungle we drove, all the way to the highest point in the reserve. We reached a clearing near a small Maya mound, from which you could faintly see El Castillo, the central structure at Xunantunich, a few miles away. This is a special location that can be used by guests for romantic dinners, proposals, or even wedding ceremonies. The views are exquisite and the breeze blows freely through the trees atop the hill. In the distance, you can see the hills of Guatemala, and in the foreground, the Maya Farm.
The Maya Farm at Chaa Creek is more than just a charming piece of the property.
It’s actually the glue connecting nearly every part of the guest experience back to the land itself. It’s where intention becomes action. So much of what ends up on your plate or in your cup, from the roasted vegetables in your meal to the herbs used in cocktails, starts right there in that soil. But its importance goes beyond food. The 32 acre farm is a tangible example of Chaa Creek’s deep respect for sustainability, cultural heritage, and self-reliance. It combines traditional Maya agricultural wisdom with modern organic techniques like composted raised beds, irrigation, and nitrogen-fixing crop rotations using makuna beans and lucina. It’s real, working land that supports the Mariposa Restaurant, The Guava Limb Cafe, and now the Maya Open Hearth, as well as other restaurants around San Ignacio. The farm ensures dinners with authenticity while educating guests through tours and tastings, and provides a hands-on connection to Belizean agriculture that you can see, touch, and taste. In a place built on immersion and care, the Maya Farm is proof that luxury doesn’t have to come at the expense of integrity, but instead can actually grow from it. Coming from a busy world where we’re often totally disconnected from our sources of food, this is a refreshing, delicious way to recapture that knowledge and respect for where our meals originate.
Chaa Creek isn’t just a place you stay- it’s a place that stays with you.
Visiting these past few days has been such a rewarding journey in every aspect. I understand fully why their reputation precedes them at the very top of the market in Belize and indeed, around the world. Every detail, every path, every person is part of a larger story that’s still being written with care, patience, and purpose. You’re not checking into a luxury lodge, you’re stepping into a living, breathing ecosystem where nature isn’t background scenery and hospitality isn’t scripted. It’s all real and intentional. And it’s all unforgettable. Whether you’re paddling upriver for sunset, sharing a delicious meal, or waking up to the calls of howler monkeys echoing through the canopy, you’re part of something bigger and profoundly Belizean. There’s a steady, grounded, human rhythm that quietly realigns your own. When you’re here, you easily remember that this is how life could and is supposed to be. Unhurried, relaxed yet invigorating, intimately connected to the world around you, and a source of constant learning and amazement. If you’re looking for an escape that feels meaningful and connects you to the land, the culture, and the people in a way few places can, this is it. Chaa Creek isn’t just a destination in Belize, it’s the entire reason you came.
Special Thanks to Bryony, Marco, Keri, Chef Edwin and the rest of the team!
The Lodge at Chaa Creek is located near San Ignacio.
For details or booking information, contact them via their website or by emailing reservations@chaacreek.com
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